| Westley's Plan and Prospects (1731) give us the first reliable views
of lower Deritend. Dugdale's prospect of 1640 shows only the chapel
emerging from trees apparently without nearby buildings. The engraving
of High Street in Dent's Old & New Birmingham is equally misleading
in showing a wholly rural avenue. Westley shows that there was a double
line of continuous buildings from Heath Mill Lane to the bridge, with
a large house between chapel and river. All the houses are drawn with
two storeys, dormers, and tiled roofs: long narrow crofts lie behind,
full of workshops and barns. A timber footbridge crosses the Rea below
the ford.
The four-arched stone bridge has refuges above the piers and a
tollbooth at either end. The old Tame bridge on Aldridge Road is
similar in appearance as in date. No bridge is shown over the 'sickle-shaped
drain' to which Hutton referred in 1780, the refuse-filled western
channel that was still the parish bound. Indeed it is not shown
on plan or view. About 1750 the Rea bridge was raised to present
a lesser obstacle to floods, but it was too narrow and the low approaches
were unaltered: so in 1789 the bridge was replaced by a wider one
'more useful but less handsome' with raised causeways to it. St.
John's Chapel was rebuilt in 1735, a brick rectangle with stone
decorations: its tower was completed three decades later. The chapel
house and a school were built behind.
About mid-century two men moved out of the smoky town where they
had made their fortunes to the green pastures of Bordesley. Thirty
acres were emparked by John Taylor, manufacturer, who build Bordesley
House for himself overlooking an ornamental lake on Bordesley Brook.
A long drive led from a portal lodge on Coventry Road to a site
off Bordesley Park Road north (now Bolton Road north end). The park's
high wall protected a herd of deer.
The house became Bordesley Hall, but was not a manor house, though
it may have been built near the Somerys' house site and the park was
certainly part of the ancient demesne.
Taylor's neighbour was Sampson Lloyd II, miller and ironmaster:
in 1745 he bought Owens' Farm of 56 acres, chose a site for a house
nearby and planted an elm avenue in front. The plain but elegant
house, always called 'Farm' by the family, was begun in 1758: later
Lloyds added a pond and stable block, and the fami1y lived there
in Quaker sobriety until 1919. Taylor and Lloyd had been lending
money for some years before they decided to found a bank, with their
sons and namesakes as partners.
Tomlinson's map of 1760 shows Bordesley totally enclosed. Though
long narrow closes south of Glovers Lane suggest groupings of furlong
strips, elsewhere enclosure had taken place so long before that
all evidence of the former open fields, including their names, had
vanished. The map shows lanes of very variable width, testifying
to the nature of the subsoil and the amount of use, and buildings
without names. Some crofts are labelled, but few of these are useful
topographically. 'Moors' (boggy meadows) help the plotting of brooks
not shown, which must otherwise be deduced from relief. Many 'leasowes'
indicate the prevalence of pasture. Patches of wood are all that
remain of perhaps a thousand acres of forest.
The name 'Bordesley Wood' has not survived, and indeed the paucity
of district names from any source is remarkable in a fair-sized
manor. (The name 'Small Heath', strictly applicable only to the
area about the junction of the Green Lanes, now (1977) spreads across
two-thirds of Bordesley) Just as there are few farms within the
oval tract which contained the demesne and perhaps two open fields,
so are there few central to the formerly-wooded eastern third. Danford
and Haybarn Farms in the south, Dingle and Hobmoor on the island
drift patch, and the Green Lane farms, probably encroached on the
wood from its edges, exercising the right of tenants in Arden to
cut and sell timber and gradually expanding their grazing land.
Farms along Coventry Road may have begun as squatters' hovels, permitted
by another Arden custom, rather than as approved assarts. Poor water
supply and exceptionally difficult travel across the clay prevented
the growth of nucleated settlement any-where in east Bordesley.
The western third had some suburban mansions by 1760 as well as
working farms: Sparkbrook House and The Poplars, Camp Hill, Fair
Hill, and Foul Lake Houses among them.
Buck's Prospect of 1750 had shown the valley edge ('Kingston Hill')
to be well-timbered. At least hedgerow trees, as he and Tomlinson's
map indicate, had survived the demands of Birmingham's ironmasters
and builders. Forest clearance had caused faster run-off from the
clay: this produced quick floods but a reduced regular flow in the
tributaries. Many of the ponds mapped at croft-corners were marlpits,
whence the more fertile clay had been dug out to spread over sand
and gravel: these filled to provide water for stock. Ponds in clayland
are likely to have been filled pits whence material for bricks and
tiles had been extracted: these products perforce replaced scarce
timber for building. Small kilns gave winter work to farm labourers:
stocked with fish the ponds supplemented the low-protein diet of
winter.
The 1760 street-pattern of Deritend consists of High Street, Birchall
Street leading off Stone Yard, Heath Mill Lane, and Darwin Street
- original name unknown. High Street is completely built-up from
the bridge to Alcester Street. New Inn, Old Battery House, Golden
Lion, are known buildings thereon. The crofts, half-filled with
sheds, extend back to Green Street on the south side and to the
line of the present railway viaduct to the north. Between Mill Lane
and the river there is a scatter of buildings as far as Bromley
Street. No others are shown in Deritend apart from Coopers Mill
and Farm at the north end. Bordesley High Street is built up only
as far as Mount (later Clyde) Street, there are small clusters overlooking
the junction gorge, at the brook crossing, and on Camp Hill. Nowhere
else is there more than a scatter of farmhouses and cottages. At
this period there are 25 'encroachments' on former common land for
which fines - rents in fact - are paid.
By 1778 (Hanson's map) Bradford Street has been marked out (one
cannot say 'made') down Henry Bradford's land from Camp Hill to
the Rea but does not yet cross it. He has offered a freehold plot
to the first man who will undertake to build on his street. Alcester,
'Birch Hole', and Lombard Streets are crossed by Cheapside and Moseley
Street. The blocks between these and on both sides of Warwick Street
are marked out as building plots, few so far taken up and the rest
in use as allotments meantime. Pye's map of 1795 shows three new
Rea bridges, extending Bradford and Moseley Streets and Cheapside
to Bromsgrove Street. On Kempson's map of 1810 the quadrilateral
between High and Moseley Streets is infilled from Rea Street to
Moseley Road. Green Street is named. The great Rea loop wherein
are Apollo Gardens and two smaller ones east of Vaughton's Hole
have been cut off by new channels, presumably made to reduce flooding.
Richards' Brewery occupies the site of the later Rowton House.
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